Obama Ignores Peru

While many Americans were caught up in the media frenzy that was the Presidential Campaign of Barack Obama, only a few were really paying attention to the actions of the man who would become President. This side of the equator actions speak louder then words and Barack Obamas support of the new US free trade agreement with Peru has kicked up a hornets nest of problems. Now I do not intend this to be an anti-Obama article, just for my readers to open up their eyes and realize that the actions of men stand as their ultimate legacy, defining them throughout history.

To understand the North American Free Trade Agreement and how it has impacted Latin American Countries, we must first look to our own shores and how it has profoundly impacted Americans in the United States. In Massachusetts alone it is estimated that 100,000 manufacturing jobs have been lost in the last decade and 3 million jobs at the national level sent oversees due to NAFTA. Perhaps this "free trade" agreement can hold some responsibility for our current economic crisis, as it seeks to set up trade deals that benefit corporations and profit rather the workers and progress.


NAFTA was created on December 8th, 1993 by the leaders of Canada, Mexico and the United States, it is one of the most powerful, wide-reaching treaties in the world. Its two supplements, the North American Agreement on Environmental Cooperation (NAAEC) and The North American Agreement on Labour Cooperation (NAALC) make up the bulk of the document. What is wrong with this free trade agreement is that it hurts consumers in countries where NAFTA is in effect and cripples the small farm or manufacturer who has to compete with monopolistic and massive corporations who sell their products cheaply. These same corporations hire cheap labor and despite all the legal paperwork that is supposed to be included in NAALC, companies would rather outsource their labor to cut costs and make more profit. All of this is at the expense of the workers from both countries in agreement, NAFTA in essence is government-directed, government-negotiated trade, which is mercantilism and not free trade.


Real free trade is as easy as cutting tariffs on imports and exports, doing away with the International Trade Commission and a host of other restrictions that seem to favor monopolistic corporations instead of the start up small business owner, manufacturer, farmer etc. In all Obamas speeches about "Joe the Plumber" and "Main Street" and how he was going to try to work on the economy, Barack Obama did not at all seem to mention his opinions on NAFTA, an agreement that if dissected would reveal to be a major contributor to the United States current economic depression. Or did he? On February 24th, 2008 while campaigning in Ohio, Obama said "I don't think NAFTA has been good for Americans, and I never have," So why skip a very important vote in the senate and not vote against an agreement that would damage so many economically in both the United States and Peru?

We can all hope that his skipped vote wasn't politically motivated, after all it is Republicans who overwhelmingly vote for these trade deals to pass anyway, I am sure the trade deal had very strong support amongst liberals and Senator Obama would just vote among party lines. In fact the Peru deal was approved by an overwhelming vote of 285 in favor to 132 against. But its most striking aspect was that 109 Democrats voted yes and 116 voted no. So what was the President-elects motivation behind skipping the vote for the NAFTA agreement with Peru after publicly supporting it along with Hillary Clinton? It's safe to assume that he didn't want to be labeled a flip flopper and lose his support among the majority of South Americans that few NAFTA dis favorably, however in a vote that gained very little media attention in the United States, would it really have been too much for Obama to stand by his principles and vote against the trade deal? Would it have been too much for him to accept Peru's invitations to the APEC Summit being hosted in Lima to discuss economic cooperation? Hey and what about the Peruvian hairless "Machu Picchu " that was offered to him and his family as the new White House Dog?


In a open letter to Obama from the Latin American Studies Association, they describe to the new President that "Latin Americans have often viewed the United States not as a friend but as an oppressor, the guarantor of an international economic system that works against them, rather than for them-- the very antithesis of hope and change." and that "While anti-American feelings run deep, history demonstrates that these feelings can change. In the 1930s, after two decades of conflict with the region, the United States swore off intervention and adopted a Good Neighbor Policy. Not coincidentally, it as the most harmonious time in the history of U.S.-Latin American relations. In the 1940s, every country in the region became our ally in World War Two. It can happen again."

Farm workers and manufacturers are bracing themselves in cities and rural communities throughout Peru. For the past couple of months Peruvians were told that the economic depression from the US would not impact them too severely, that our trade relations were deeply rooted worldwide and that our financial institutions independent. All of the rhetoric was taken lightheartedly as the reality of the signing of the new free trade agreement began to emerge. Foremost is the unjust competition between Peruvian agricultural products and North American products which are subsidized by the US government, unlike the agricultural products of Peru. If that wasn't enough new labor laws introduced by the agreement fail to address many key labor issues such as overtime, pay and social security. It is expected that a privatized social security system similar to the proposal by President Bush will be implemented in Peru. The main beneficiary seems to be Citibank, the largest shareholder in ProFuturo AFP, a company authorized to compete against Peru's national social security system.

Protest against free trade deal in Lima

American mining companies who have made billions in profit in the last 30 years continue to abuse worker rights and continue to offer low wages to their workers , many of whom suffer from fatigue and bronchial infections. And whats on the horizon? What can Peruvians and Latin Americans alike look forward to in the future due to the new free trade agreement? Likely more American corporations who have just been handed the paperwork to let them consume foreign resources while maneuvering around labor and environmental laws. We can only hope the new American President stops ignoring his neighbors and his own citizens and draft a new real free trade agreement.

The Virgen de la Candelaria Festival Set to Begin

Every year beginning on the first of February, Puno; the Folkloric Capital of Peru, explodes in celebrations to the Virgen de la Candelaria. The Virgin is the patron saint of Puno, and la Candelaria translates to the presentation of her son Jesus. The festival lasts for many days and can be seen as a prelude to Carnival which is celebrated throughout Peru in February.

This year this festival begins on Sunday, February 1st, lasting approximately 18 days the festival will exhibit more then 200 groups of musicians and dancers from the many areas of Peru. An expected 40,000 tourists will be on hand to experience the parades, processions, heavy drinking and fireworks.

The history of the festival is said to be linked to the Pre-Hispanic agricultural cycles of sowing and harvesting. Both Aymara and Quechua cultures celebrate the festival which also attract Christians and Pagans alike. The worship of the Virgin is also attributed to mining in the region. The dance of the demons called Diabladas, which is the main dance of the festival, is said to have been created by a group of miners trapped in a mine who in their fear and desperation gave their souls to the Virgen de la Candelaria.

The festival has two main phases. The first is described as el Dia Principal, the principal day, in which a procession carries the statue of the Virgen around the city, while dancers in lavish costumes dance around the main square to join the parade. The dancers, by group, pause in front of the cathedral to be blessed with holy water, after which they are cooled with water thrown from nearby houses.

The second phase occurs on the Sunday after February second, called the Octava. On this day, El Sugundo Gran Dia, translated into the Second Great Day, costumed groups from the surrounding areas of Puno dance day and night in religious fervor and competitive spirit.

As the festival whanes it is not uncommon to see water fights erupt throughout the city as Carnival in Peru begins. So if your in the area please make sure to check out Puno and all the colorful festivities that surround La Virgen de la Candelaria Festival. Puno is an 8 hour bus ride south from Cusco.

What the...? must be Punos version of the Yeti.

Karikuy Volunteer Program In Detail

If you haven't already checked out the Perupedia project web site please head over to www.karikuy.org/perupedia. You can find more information on the volunteer program and an application form you can fill out if your interested in joining the program. I will now go ahead and explain the program in detail, including your jobs as a volunteer, the meal plan, boarding and explain a basic day in the life as a volunteer in Peru.

Volunteering Information:
-Free Room and Board
- $22 a week meal plan
-Monday through Friday workweek (3 day weekend can be set up for excursions)
-8 hours of work (10am to 8pm lax hours with meal breaks)
-Discounted tours for weekend travel
-Holidays off
-Stress free environment

Work Expected
-Information gathering
-Essay writing
-Web site layout
-Photo editing
-Blogging
-Video editing (not part of job requirement)
-Minor Maintenance (mostly personal cleaning, painting, etc.)

OK great! so lets say you have made the decision to become a volunteer, you fly out to Peru (you pay your own round trip airfare of course) and land at Jorge Chavez International Airport. You'll find me at the airport waiting to greet you and help you change any currency, just as I would any of my customers who come to Peru on one of our tours. Here's where your adventure volunteering in Peru begins. First stop is the bed and breakfast where I will show you around the house and how to use the facilities. I give you the rest of the day off to settle down and take you on a tour of the surrounding area. If it's a weekend we'll go out so you can experience Lima to see what you have gotten yourself into ha ha no joke really your going to have a lot of fun.

On your first workday you get up pretty much the time your use to, just remember you are expected to put in a good 8 hours a day into the project. I will discuss where we're at in the project and give you a starting point from which to begin. For example I could say we need to catalog and write about popular hotels in Puno, you will then get on your laptop (required) and look up the top reviewed hotels in Puno and write a good description for each with location information, current prices and contact info. You have various options in obtaining this information, you can look on the web or call the hotels personally if well versed in Spanish and ask them yourself. This is what we mean when we say the project is looking for good information gatherers.

So back to explaining your day to day as a volunteer. After a breakfast consisting of some fresh bread, eggs, oatmeal, coffee and all that good stuff you head to work. At around 1pm lunch is served, lunch being the most heavy and important meal of the day in Peru, the meal is a bowl of soup and a main course accompanied by some freshly made juice, tea or more coffee. These meal are about an hour long usually depending on how fast you eat and then it's back to work. Dinner is a lighter meal consisting of either the soup or main course from earlier in the day, if your hungry your free to have both. After dinner the clock is at about 8pm and you have an hour or so to wrap up and save any writing you have been working on. The work day normally doesn't last any later then 9 although you are free to work longer if you wish. From the time you stop working until the time you go to sleep you can surf the web, watch TV or movie, and even go out, although I caution anyone from going out at night alone. That's your average work day summed up in a nutshell.

It's also very important to me to hear what you have to say about your experiences in Peru, for that reason I will reserve one day of the week for the volunteer to write a blog about a certain subject that relates to them and their time in the country. These blogs will be posted on a new site and not on this personal blog. That platform, which will debut as soon as our first volunteers join us with the project, will be hosted on the Karikuy web site using Wordpress. This special blogging day will be Fridays unless I specify otherwise or there is a more important topic that needs finishing.

On the weekends you have the opportunity to travel throughout Peru, I would recommend visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu. For longer planned trips I am more then glad to give you a 3 day weekend and even a 4 day weekend depending on the location and the circumstances. I will also honor Birthdays and other Holidays that may be personal or religious. Depending on where you wish to visit, know that you will receive the lowest possible price Karikuy can get you for your travels. All we ask is that while you are away you always carry a notepad with you to jot down information on locations, transportation, prices and news. All this gathered information is extremely valuable in order to help the Perupedia project grow. When possible and if you request I can accompany you on some tours, giving you my expertise on certain locations and helping you with your information gathering.

I have described your work on the project above as information gathering, however at any time and depending on your qualities I could ask you to put a short video together, or to help with the layout of the Perupedia site and edit other sections. Remember that the Perupedia project is very open ended and that there will be other volunteers working from their own homes uploading information into the site from around the world. One of your jobs will be to review these additions and check for errors or misinformation. On occasion I may even ask you to clean your room ha ha if your not too neat that is, or maybe to help me paint a part of the Bed and Breakfast and do repairs, all of these being minor physical work. I hope I have given you a good picture of how volunteers can expect to spend their days in the country. I also want to add that parties and social events are very common so as to not make the program seem uneventful. Peruvians love to dance and have a good time and I am certain you will too.

Peru is a great place to volunteer and I really hope to have a great time with some of you who qualify for this project. Although this isn't your more traditional Peruvian volunteer program, please understand that you are doing a great service to people around the world who wish to know more about Peru , its culture and people. This ultimate reference of Peru will have it's place on the Internet as the most thorough database on Peru and has the opportunity of becoming a focal point on attracting more attention to the social and political issues that affect the country. Depending on the success of this project (which is entirely up to the volunteers, I could never do it all myself) I will choose to open similar projects for other South American countries that would have volunteers be boarded abroad as well. For now I will take it one step at a time and invite you to come to Peru to get to know the country and then share it with the world.

A Karikuy Christmas, better late then never.

When we think of Christmas and the holidays, the majority of us envision a house full of relatives on a cold and snowy morning. As kids we would try to get some if any sleep the night before, our minds occupied by what could be under the tree. Heck even at 20 I was a bit restless thinking of what high tech toys I would receive or even accept from myself. These traditional scenes of Christmas have very little in common to how it is celebrated in Peru. And although I have always celebrated the holidays with a mix of both the Peruvian and American versions of Christmas, this year I was able to celebrate it in Peru among my family and friends with all the excitement which is Christmas in Peru.

The Plaza de Armas of Lima, light shows and other activities are common leading up to Christmas night.

To begin I must explain that Christmas in Peru is celebrated at exactly 12:00am on January 25th. The family begins arriving around 11pm on the 24th. Traditionally turkey or ham is prepared as the main Christmas meal. There is a calm leading up to midnight, family members greet each other as they begin to arrive. Salsa music begins to echo through the house, the artists singing their own creative mix of holiday songs, a favorite of mine being "Aires de Navidad" by Hector Lavoe. Five minutes to 12 and you can begin to hear the first firecrackers exploding throughout the neighborhood, and although it might seem outrages to us westerners it is common to see 5 year olds throwing firecrackers into the air as the streets explode at the strike of 12.

And so the celebration that is Christmas begins in a country where 89% of the population is Christian. The thunderous applause of a Christian nation can seem overwhelming as the firework tribute to the birth of Jesus lasts approximately half an hour at its peak. Fireworks are continuously heard through the evening of the 25th. Shortly afterward hugs and kisses and the customary "Feliz Navidad" as family members gather around a nativity scene, the children tare into their gifts, as it is only them who receive them. It seems older folk are left to break open the champagne or wine bottles and toast the night away. At the nativity scene (which all families construct and try so hard to out do one another with) the family gathers as a baby Jesus is brought out to take his place as the focal point of the midnight celebration. The Christmas meal is then served to a hungry family which is used to eating supper around 7pm. Depending on the circumstances Christmas parties can last throughout the night. It is also customary to leave your door open as your neighbors and friends pop in to say hello and receive their slice of Panetone (sweet bread) and hot chocolate, preferably beer or wine is handed out.

The Nativity Scene or "Nacimiento" every family creates their own version.

Family dinner after midnight, tired and full. More wine please!

The day of the 25th is spent lazily toasting to the day, remember that it is summer in Peru and the temperature is a lovely 70 degrees, perfect for going to the beach or playing a game of volleyball or futbolito (futsal) with the neighbors. As for me, I believe I was up till about 7 am having a few beers with my cousins. Christmas in Peru is very much different then from American traditions. Celebrating both versions I can say that the traditional South American Christmas is a little more lively then its northern counterpart. As an example you might find it rare to find a night club open and packed on Christmas night as opposed to in Peru where they are open until the last clients leave, usually around 8 - 9 am.

New Years on the other hand is very similar to festivities worldwide as it is primarily an adult celebration and is centered around parties. At 12 fireworks once again fill the streets with the only difference in customs being that in Peru you gather up all your old clothes to create an effigy and burn it at 12am. In a way you are burning past burdens and the old year away and bringing in the new. Now had I brought more clothes in from the states I would have probably contributed to this truly unique Peruvian custom.

The State of Karikuy

So how has to worldwide recession affected Karikuy, and what is being done to promote and grow the organization? To answer those questions I will first describe the situation Karikuy finds itself in at the moment.

A year ago as the organization went public and saw its first couple of clients arrive in Peru, the economic landscape was much different then we see it today. There was talk of recession as financial institutions reported on their negative earnings, and for the most part people could sense what was about to happen but wasn't of immediate concern to them. Today as news of the worsening situation is almost inescapable, Karikuy has seen it's clientele cut almost in half.

uncertain future? not really, I don't believe in trying, only doing.

Although many would say that it is probably the worst time to even think about starting a company, let alone an organization that makes very little profit, I differ. Yes it's harder to attract customers then it was a year ago, but you can't fight an economic depression through stagnation and ceasing to create jobs and business. Are their risks? of coarse but through smart investing and managing anything can be overcome. The fact that Karikuy offers tours of Peru at very low prices can also only help in attracting customers who don't have to much capital to spend.

New sunrise, new opportunities.

So what is the state of Karikuy at this moment? It is stable and healthy, all is going according to plan, our goals are still very much the same, and our determination is even stronger. The drop off in customers is expected but not detrimental to our success. In February we will begin advertising on the Internet for budget oriented customers. We have a February sale in effect that slashes $100 off all of our tours in February with the exception of The Backpacker. February is normally a slow month for tourism in Peru as the Inca Trail is closed and the height of the rainy season hits eastern Peru and the highlands. However I encourage all travelers to take the opportunity to visit Peru in February, the New Inca Trail is available and it is summer on the coast with the month long Carnival taking place throughout Peru.

I will also be traveling to Cusco in late February to interview new guides to follow our commitment to offer the highest quality service for your buck. In order to bring you even lower prices Karikuy is planning of starting a Merchandise for Cut in Price service where you would bring certain electronics like laptops or game consoles to Peru, where these items are rare and expensive, to be sold to us at a profit. With the Merchandise for Cut in Price service you could see up to $300 cut off the price of many of our tours. That's a lot of money saved just for bringing in a product as a personal item.

We are always thinking of lowering our prices for our customers, however sometimes we need your help in doing so. the Merchandise for Cut in Price will be optional and if you may have any doubts know that according to customs law you are allowed to bring in several personal items without being taxed at the airport, 1 camera, 1 video camera, 1 laptop etc. Again more information about this service will be available in the coming weeks.

Hard at work; volunteers can expect to be hunched over their laptops at the Bed & Breakfast pictured above.

Finally I want to write a little about our new volunteer program. This program is made available to anybody of any age who wants to spend some time in Lima working on our Perupedia project. this is a very affordable if not the most affordable volunteer program I have seen on the Internet. It includes free room and board and a cheap $70 a month or $22 a week meal plan that includes breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Karikuy Bed & Breakfast. Your job Monday through Friday would be to gather information on certain areas in Peru and present them in a neat format to post on the Perupedia website. For an example pick up a Frommer's or Lonely Planet guide book for a similar layout. This project will be exclusively on the Internet and free to anybody who wishes to know about all things Peru, travel, news, sports etc. On the weekends you are free to travel throughout Peru and see the country, three day weekends are available too if necessary. Or if your a workaholic like me then your free to keep working on the projects or even travel and work on the project gathering information from place to place. More detailed information on the volunteer program will be available later this week.

To conclude this post I want to assure our past customers and our future customers that Karikuy is healthy and we continue to offer our services to those looking for a truly authentic experience in Peru. Later in the week I will explain how the economic crisis has had very little impact on the Peruvian economy itself so far, well that's excluding the tourism industry. Karikuy will always be as strong as its supporters, this is an organization of people and not so much capital. We will ride out the crisis one smile at a time and one adventure after the next.

Last Month of Tour Season - 50$ Off All Tours

From this post through August 25th, 2008 all tours on the Karikuy Catalog are being offered with $50 taken off the final price. Here are the updated prices of all Karikuy Tours through the end of the season:

Classic Inca Trail - 7 Days - Sold Out
New Inca Trail - 7 Days - $649
The Machu Picchu Adventure - 8 Days - $749
Mysteries of Peru - 8 Days - $899
The Pachamama - 10 Days - $899
The Inti - 9 Days - $949
Mysteries of Peru Grand Tour - 11 Days - $999
Aqua Adventure - 8 Days - $1049
Terra Adventure - 8 Days - $999
Jungle Adventure - 8 Days - $1349
The Great Adventure - 16 Days - $2249

Make sure to ask for the promotion or include the promo code of summer0850 in your emails. Book your spots on these trips before they are booked solid!

Believe in Karikuy

Lately have been finding it hard as the owner of a young company to attract clients. Yes, I´m using the Paypal system to process payments and I hope that is not hurting this organization, and hopefully not your interest in using Karikuy to travel to Peru. I hope to be processing payments directly through MasterCard and Visa by the fall, I apologize if you are reluctant to use Paypal. Just know that I use Paypal because it is reliable, it gives me the ability to issue refunds if necessary and gives you the consumer fraud prevention tools and security, most of all the ability to get your money back if you decide not to make the trip.

I will be putting up a testimonials section on the website in September so you all get to hear what my past clients had to say about their experience with Karikuy. For now you can check out the Reviews section of our Facebook business page for traveller reviews. I really want all of you to get the best out of your trip here to Peru. I know I offer the best prices and most for your buck out of any tour company in Peru, I guess letting the world know that is another small hurdle I will have to jump in making Karikuy the great organization it will become.

Return to Paradise

In five days I will be heading back to Peru, I have been counting the days since I last left that beautiful country of mine. My adventurous spirit, coupled with my vigor to see Karikuy succeed in its broad vision, have reawakened my previously fatigued state of mind. You see, I've been spending about 10+ hours everyday hunched over a keyboard, my eyes enveloped in a mechanical light that has become my daylight the past couple weeks. Booking, planning, advertising, developing, its all very methodical work and nothing cheers me up more then knowing I'm only a couple days away from putting all that behind me and dealing with the exciting end of my job. Getting to know my clients and seeing their awed faces as I show them around my country is irreplaceable, I know of no other reward similar to it, at least not in any previous job.

So as I start packing and getting ready to depart the good old USA, I think to myself what adventures and surprises I will run into this summer, or then again I should say winter, even though I just returned from summer...oh wait a coastal summer in Peru is a Andean winter, either or. Ha ha yes it's all very incredible really, in the next four months I will have experienced every season and almost every micro climate. What a wonder Peru is, I look forward to meeting all of you who have signed up for one of the trips and those in the process of doing so. If there's adventure to be had, you will find it in Peru.

*Tariy Update* I will resume writing about the trip in my downtime in Lima. I have not forgotten about it, and have it organized in the blog links section of the blog for better structure.

Tariy, Day 9: Ceviche in Callao

Tuesday March 18th

I woke up to the sound of our bus speeding it's way through the dusty desert coast of Peru. About half our bus was awake and watching a movie, in a little while the bus steward would be passing a small snack for breakfast. We soon entered the city of Lima, the city however is huge and it would take another forty five minutes until we reached the bus terminals in the heart of the city. I didn't mind the wait, I was glad that I would be in the company of my family once again and that tomorrow we'd all be together celebrating my birthday.

My uncle Freddy was at the station when we arrived, being a taxi driver he's the one that usually drives me around when I go home and it is him and his friends that provide the transportation for Karikuy. So as we made our way back to my neighborhood in Central Lima I had very little on my mind as to what I would be doing for the day, what I knew for certain though was that I'd be in Callao eating some of the best ceviche in Peru.

My neighborhood of Planeta, the smoke is of a train that just rolled on through.

I had a couple of hours to take a nap and get in a good breakfast before we set off again at noon. Before leaving for Peru I had failed to pack much clothing for myself due to all the gifts and donations I had received. So first on my list of things to do was to head to one of the large super centers found throughout Lima and pick up some shorts and a shirt for tomorrows party.

After picking up some clothes and sipping on a delicious fruit smoothie we headed to the port city of Callao. Callao has remained the biggest port in Peru since it was founded in 1537, the city was largely destroyed and vast areas flooded when a tsunami hit after a strong earthquake in 1746. I commonly hear that 1/4 of the original Callao lies underwater, however that number fluctuates with each story and it's hard to tell, I will do more research on that when I return later in the year. Here are some pictures:

And a short video of the ride up to La Punta, notice the fortress at the end of the video, it is the largest and strongest Spanish fortress built in Latin America.

There is a little restaurant at La Punta (The Point) of Callao and I recommend it for anyone who is in the area, it is called the Neptune. I bring tourists and guests there and frequently include it in my trip itineraries. It has to be my favorite place in Peru to eat ceviche, because not only do they make one amazing dish but they also provide the best setting and scenery to wolf down a plate of this signature Peruvian dish.

Everyone dig in!

Second course of fried calamari...mmmm.

All gone :(

Finishing up a meal at Neptune's is always followed by a stroll over at the oceanfront which is about a hundred feet from the restaurant itself. Currently a lot of La Punta is under construction which is slated to be finished by next year but there are still plenty of spots where you can go and watch the waves splashing against the barrier wall. The feeling of being under the warm sun after a filling meal of ceviche can be enough impetus for anyone to return to Peru and is always one of the highlights of my trip back home, I recommend it to everyone I meet.

There is not much to tell about the rest of my day, I spent most of it back home catching up with family that would drop by to say hello as well as doing some laundry and double checking my budget for the rest of the trip.


Knowing that I would get very little sleep the following day I made a point of heading to bed early. My birthday party would not disappoint.

Tariy, Day 8: The Road Back to Lima

Monday March 17th

Maycol and I woke up to a chilly Monday morning in Cajamarca. It was around six in the morning, the plaza lay eerily silent with the sound of a few roosters in the distance. Up to this point I had a beef with roosters going back to our days in Casma, there a rooster had started crowing at three in the morning just as we were about to go to bed. The rooster had only been about 20 feet away from us and it's loud calls were head splitting. This morning the crowing seemed to only add to the beauty of a sleepy Cajamarca at dawn.

We made our way to the bus station and hopped on a bus headed for Chiclayo. The bus trip to Chiclayo would turn out to be one of the more memorable bus rides of the trip. The weather was absolutely gorgeous and the scenery throughout the ride was equally jaw dropping, it made the six hour ride go by in a flash. First we passed we had to climb in elevation to reach the pass that dips down into Cajamarca as well as westward towards the coast.

There are some roads in Peru that will really give you a good scare, one of them is the road from Huaraz to Huari and as I would find out later from Ayacucho to Andahuaylas. The road to Chiclayo was paved and even though it was still very steep and windy I felt relaxed and paid little attention to the absurd heights. About two hours in we had already dropped in elevation dramatically and were snaking our way through a picture perfect valley with majestic peaks all around us.

Here's a short clip of me goofing off on the bus ride. I do not recommend sticking your head out the bus windows. On one occasion I was filming outside the window for the Karikuy video when I heard a distant noise coming from my left, intuitively I put my head back in the window just as bridge supports passed less then a foot away from the windows. I bet that would've hurt pretty bad if not taken my whole head off!

I took the following video to demonstrate just how dramatically the micro climates in Peru change. The video shows the desert and as I pan to the left you can see the green farmlands and mountains climbing up into the Andes. Peru has 28 different climate types and 84 of the 104 ecological niches that have so far been identified, a fact that classifies Peru as the most ecologically diverse country in the world.

We reached Chiclayo at one in the afternoon. At the bus terminal we bought our tickets for the bus to Lima which would be leaving at six in the evening. We left our backpacks at the bus stations luggage storage and headed out for some lunch. I had some papa a la huancaina, one of my favorite Peruvian dishes while my cousin had caldo de gallina or chicken soup as we would call it. We were more then happy to come across our favorite beer Cristal as it had eluded us since Casma, provecho!

After the light lunch we headed out for the museum that houses the Lord of Sipan, Peru's version of Tutankhamen. It is said that the treasure found at the tomb of the Lord of Sipan rivals that of the tomb of King Tut, that's why Sipan is often referred to as the Tutankhamen of the Americas.As we walked towards the museum we could tell that there was something amiss, the road leading up to the site was quiet and there was no one around. We soon found out that the museum is closed on Mondays for cleaning. Disappointed we took a couple snapshots of the exterior and then headed for Chiclayo's Plaza de Armas. I took note of that fact for future reference but at the same time kicked myself for not having looked into it beforehand; experience points gained.

Webon, I think they're closed...

Although we didn't spend too much time in Chiclayo I was very drawn to it. It has a certain charm about it and the atmosphere is very laid back, perhaps that's why Chiclayo's nickname is La Cuidad de la Amistad; The City of Friendship.

When we reached the Plaza de Armas I was surprised at its size, covered by tall palms the plaza has to be the smallest I'd seen so far out of any town or city in Peru. I even think that Supe being a very small town had a much larger plaza then Chiclayo's. The Plaza de Armas did however have some impressive buildings surrounding it including a beautiful cathedral.

We hung around the Plaza de Armas until it was time to head back to the bus depot to catch our ten hour ride back to Lima, we didn't mind the long ride as it was at night and we'd sleep through most of it. We were glad to be going back home for some rest and a much needed plate of Ceviche.

Tariy, Days 5 & 6: Cesar Vallejo, Chan Chan and Chaufa

Friday March 14th

Trujillo is the third most populous city in Peru, of course at the time my cousin and I were not aware of this. The bus ride into the city seemed to take forever as we approached the bus depot near the heart of the provincial capital. Fortunately there is never a shortage of entertainment for Peruvians and we were relieved of the long bus ride by entertainers who would hop on board for a small tip. One of the more memorable entertainers was a comedian who would go around the bus ripping on everyone, he seemed to focus on love and relationships, his delivery was spot on!

After hopping off the bus we walked a couple of blocks with our backpacks at which at this point felt as if they were getting heavier as the trip went on. Dripping with sweat we we entered the Plaza de Armas. We were quickly impressed by the fountain sculpture at the center of the square which represents work, art and liberty.

Trujillos colonial charm can be seen throughout the city, and its brightly colored buildings create eye candy for the passing visitor. We walked four blocks down Avenida Pizzaro to Plazuela el Recreo where we found a hostel with the same name on the eastern corner of the plaza. I immediately set to work on bargaining prices and introducing Karikuy to the hostel owner. After exchanging contact information we were led up to our room which was a double with a balcony overlooking the plazuela.

The room included a TV and private bathroom with hot showers which I quickly took advantage of. I gotta say no matter how long I stay in Peru for I still can't get used to cold showers, as strange as it is though I do feel great and more refreshed after one. I guess its the shock of cold water hitting your skin that I can't get used too, even in scorching hot weather...oh well. We freshened up a bit, I added some more sun tan lotion to my cherry red nose and then headed out for an evening snack as well as some internet time.

When we returned to our hostel we were surprised to see that a crowd had gathered outside in the plazuela and a stage erected. We asked around and found out that there would be a poetry reading and concert in honor of the birthday of Cesar Vallejo, one of the great poets to come out of Peru and also considered one of the great poetic innovators of the 20th century. We watched the concert from our balconies while we prepared to head out to the night clubs and I took the opportunity to shoot the following:

Luna Rota was the name of the club we headed to that night, perhaps we arrived a little early but we got a sense that the people of Trujillo were a bit conservative in that a really good live salsa band was playing and no one was dancing. We arrived at about 10:30pm and the party didn't really start until midnight, and this is on a Friday night! no sir not in Lima, no way. Regardless we danced and toasted the night to our time in Trujillo, the rest of the nights details remain in this city, a city known for it's revolutionary spirit.

Saturday March 15th

In the morning we woke up a bit groggy and hungover, I took a much cooler shower then I'm normally used to in order to get the blood flowing. Stopping at a little diner we grabbed a quick breakfast that to most would look like dinner, Lomo Saltado on a bun.

We then headed out to the ruins of Chan Chan. The ruins are about a 15 minute taxi ride from Trujillo's center. We were dropped off at an entrance where there were other taxis waiting to drive you even closer to the ruins. This being our first time at the site we decided to just walk, it took us about 25 minutes to get to the ruins and it was a nice walk since cities on the coast enjoy very comfortable temperatures in the morning.

My cousin also had a radio built into his cellphone allowing us to hear the latest news and music. It was here that I found out about the scandal regarding NY Governor Spitzer, the early morning show was ripping on his so bad I almost wet myself but hey thats politics..

Getting back to Chan Chan, the city is the largest adobe city in the world. The layout of the complex is huge and only a small portion of it is accessible to tourists. There were several scaffolds and signs of reconstructions being made to the complex, it seems that the changing climate and the effects of La Niña are really taking a toll on this ancient city. Here are a bunch of photos of the site:

So is Chan Chan worth visting? Yes of course but having a guide with you is key. There are many facts about this complex that would elude the traveler who decides to walk through the site by himself. For example there are rooms with pillars that project your voice through acoustic wedges, there are also halls with optical illusions to make them seem bigger on the other end.

We spent the whole morning at Chan Chan returning to Trujillo in the early afternoon. The next city on our trek was Cajamarca, about a six hour bus ride through the Andes. Unfortunately the weather was not on our side as we climbed into the Andes and as the sun started to dim so did our hopes of a panoramic drive into the legendary Peruvian city.

We arrived in Cajamarca at about nine at night, once again we set off to the main plaza commonly referred to as the Plaza de Armas in South American cities. We had made friends with a lovely German backpacker who was led us to a hotel off the Plaza de Armas, once there I introduced myself and Karikuy to the owner so we could exchange information. He quickly escorted us to a room with a balcony overlooking the Plaza. This room had three beds and was rather large, it might just take the prize as the best room we've stayed in during our whole trip.

We got dressed and cleaned up a bit, it being a Saturday night it was obvious that we would check out the local nightlife, however at this point we were starving. Theres something about high altitude towns that make me very hungry, perhaps it's all the calories I'm burning, after all your heart pumps faster as your body tries to consume more oxygen from the thin atmosphere. We really gorged ourselves, after having some Chaufa for dinner we headed to a restaurant for some Pisco Sours and an omelet.

You might be thinking how it could be possible to even think about dancing after a meal like that, well they don't call Peru the gastronomical capital of the world for nothing. It seems as if each meal complements the next and with the food being so delicious it's hard to really feel full. And so rejuvenated and ready to explore the city we headed out for another intense night of dancing, drinking and meeting new people. The next day would be a little disappointing but in the end would work out to be a lot of fun.